As always, click on the images for full sized versions
This is one of those articles I do every now and then about how I have solved some special challenges. I have a freakishly large free-standing wardrobe from Ikea that I�m using for storage of various things; I won�t bore you with the details but it�s gigantic. In fact, I walked into it the other day, kept walking past coats, found myself in an icy wasteland with English kids and a talking lion�oh wait, wrong story... At any rate, suffice it to say that I�m using this wardrobe in such a way that it defies straightforward seismic bracing (preventing it from falling over, preventing the doors from swinging open, and preventing the contents from falling apart), and it took a while for me to figure out how to make it reasonably safe.
Here�s my story, in case any parts of this overall solution are relevant to problems being faced by readers:
How do I stop the massive doors from swinging open?
These doors are about 7.5 feet tall, with lots of loose objects behind them. If they want to open, they aren�t likely to be thwarted by the typical quake-resistant cabinet latches like push latches and Murakoshi latches about which I�ve written. The tall doors are floppy enough that they are unlikely to be controlled by a push latch in any one place, and even the Murakoshi latch at the top would probably not be very effective. The double door is the most problematic because of all of the contents piled up behind it, so I concentrated on that section first.
The first thing I did was to figure out a simple way to essentially clip the two handles together so that it would prevent the two doors from swinging open away from each other. I did not want it to be a pain to open the doors though. I tried a bunch of types of clips but they were either too inconvenient to use, or too pliable to actually hold against much force.
My solution was either a stroke of alien genius or luck or a bit of both. I noticed at the hardware store a very long-shank padlock, and if I leave off the lock part and just use the shank, this hardened metal U shape easily slides over the two handles and does not bend at all. I just slip my finger under the top of the U, slide it up and off, and then drop it back into place when I close the door. I can even do it without leaving fingerprints on the mirrored doors! Why, a pre-language ape could do it!
That�s great, and doesn�t look bad at all; but it�s an awful lot of pressure for a single pair of door handles to hold, so I tried adding a latch to work in concert with the clip holding the handles together. I suspect push latches just aren�t effective here, but after experimenting with those Murakoshi latches, I got a few more and added a pair to the top of these wardrobe doors. Alone, they would be ineffective, but together with the clip, I think it�s pretty secure. I used the white ones, which go better with the grey door and white back than the brown ones do.
For the single door, there is nothing to clip, but there are a couple of strong shelves that won�t be going anywhere. I decided to install two brown Murakoshi latches on the same door, one at the top and one at a shelf (orange and yellow arrows) so there would be two different sections of the door being prevented from opening. It really seems to work; I can hear that comforting �thunk� sound that you get whenever you open a door with the Murakoshi latch, but I�m hearing it from two different heights simultaneously.
How do I stop the contents from falling apart and out?
Well, suffice it to say that I did not make matters any easier for myself by arranging the contents of the wardrobe. As you can see from the first photos, I have a chest of drawers INSIDE the wardrobe, some musical instruments on the chest, and a hulking shelf laden with heavy music (no, I don�t mean it�s all Mahler and Wagner, I mean that sheet music weighs a lot). I would not want the chest of drawers to topple and crash through the doors, and I wouldn�t want the shelf to collapse under the weight of the music and come down on the instruments.
For the shelf, I was less concerned with the shelf itself breaking because it�s a really thick strong wooden shelf and it doesn�t seem like it is in any danger of bending or collapsing. I�d be more concerned with the little pegs holding it up on both sides, as I�ve already written about experiences with these things failing suddenly and shelves crashing down even without an earthquake.
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see two different kinds of pegs under the shelf. The brown ones are the pegs that were there originally, but they have been turned around. These have a screw and a plastic peg at right angles to each other, and the screw was attaching it to the bottom of the shelf while the plastic peg was in the hole; and we know what can happen to plastic pegs in holes bearing weight! (I couldn�t find a photo of the exact peg, but the photo shown here on the left is of a metal version; pretend this is brown plastic and you�ll get the picture.) I kept the original pegs but turned them so that the plastic pegs were sticking up into the holes underneath the shelf, and the thick metal screws were going into the holes in the sides of the cabinet. Then, still worried about all that weight on three screws per side that might not be great with shear force, I added three new plastic supports with metal pegs like the ones shown on the right. (Note: if you do something like this, the holes to drill for the additional pegs won�t be at exactly the same level as the pre-drilled peg holes; you�ll just have to bumble your way through it like I did.)
Now how about that dresser. This is holding a lot of stuff and is very heavy. It�s an Ikea dresser (yep, I put it together all by myself; took all evening but it was worth it!) and ironically, the Ikea dressers now come with kits to brace them to walls and little inserts that say you must do this to prevent little kids from climbing up the front and getting seriously injured or worse. And of course, we all brace our dressers to the wall in Earthquake Country, right? And even though it is behind closed doors that were secured as I just described earlier, a large enough earthquake could still make this dresser want to fall forward and it might just punch through the doors. But it was not practical in the wardrobe to brace the dresser to the back because that back is just flimsy backing board, not structurally sound. I ended up screwing in metal L brackets on one side and on the bottom front as pictured in the accompanying figure. Yeah I know, this is not the strongest configuration, but it was all I could do and I think that in combination with the secured doors, it will prevent the dresser from falling forward.
How do I prevent this massive thing from falling over onto my head?
That�s an important question because my desk is about 5 feet in front it the wardrobe; if it falls away from the wall, it�s headed right toward me! The wardrobe already had two of the cabinet straps from Quakehold/Ready America at the top, and I added a third, all in wall studs of course. Because this is so large and heavy, I didn�t just rely on the adhesive holding the fuzzy part of the Velcro strap to the top of the wardrobe; I screwed in the little short wood screws that come with some of the straps so that the assembly was more securely attached to the furniture. You can kind of see the screws in the middle photo and one is clearly shown in the righthand photo.
I�ve been a bit concerned, however, that this was larger and heavier than anything I had ever braced and I wasn�t sure whether the straps would really hold it. They probably would, but then I heard about something, ironically, from my next door neighbors, of which I had not been aware. The Japanese have poles that go between the top of tall furniture and the ceiling, compressed, so that the back of the top can�t get any higher, which it would need to do if the furniture was falling away from the wall. I could not find these on Amazon, etc., but a search brought up one Japanese source and fortunately I was able to successfully order them, despite return messages being in Japanese. In case you can�t find them, here is a link to the product that works currently; if it changes, try www.rakuten.co.jp. The instructions are all in Japanese; you can figure it out somewhat from the diagrams but make sure you realize the following:
(1) Find solid ceiling. The instructions seem to want you to find wall studs in the ceiling rather than hollow drywall; my ceiling didn�t have anything at regular intervals but there was about a foot of solid material above the ceiling right next to the wall so I was able to place them under that solid part. Either way, you want them bracing the back of the cabinet rather than the front, because if it tips over, the back goes up and the front goes down.
(2) You are supposed to line up the different parts of the telescopic tube and screw in a sharp screw right through them, to keep the two parts at a specific length just shorter than what it needs to be. Then you turn the ring around the bottom to extend it and put pressure between the furniture and the ceiling. I do not know how tight it should be; I made it as tight as I could by hand without really cranking on it, because I don�t want it slowly cracking the drywall over time.
(3) There�s a red line on the bottom tube showing where it is over-extended; you don�t want that red mark to be exposed when it is put together or it won�t be a strong.
Finished and braced!
So here is the final product. I think it looks great, and while I put a LOT of effort into this, I do feel better about knowing that it is not going to be a massive death trap in a quake. In fact, I am feeling pretty confident about this now, and I suspect that if my entire home were to completely fall apart in a giant quake, this wardrobe would still be standing right here intact and closed and upright; gateway to Narnia and all. Although, if you are expecting any English kids to emerge back out of the wardrobe, you should probably take that clip off of the handles�
(A long one� but much of the length is a technical description of installation that you can just skim over unless you are actually going to be installing these latches)
E-mail subscribers: this particular article is probably best viewed online in the blog itself, rather than in the e-mail message, due to all of the videos.
Earthquakes frequently make cabinet doors swing open and knock out everything in the cabinets, creating a massive mess in the best case, and serious damage or injury in the worst case. Consider not only the breakable dishes and glasses in those cabinets, but also all the different kinds of oils and vinegars and liqueurs and condiments and sauces and bottled-that and jars-of-this that could tumble out and smash onto the floor� well, I suppose a revolutionary new culinary combination taste sensation could come out of it (or, if the earthquake is well-timed with an electrical storm, perhaps a new life form), but it�s generally a good situation to avoid. Having quake-resistant cabinet latches, especially in the high cabinets of a kitchen, is a really good idea.
There are several different kinds of products that call themselves quake resistant latches. I�ve long been a big proponent of push latches (touch latches) and have used them for about 25 years now in multiple apartments and condos. These are the latches that prevent your cabinet doors from opening unless the door is pushed in first to make them disengage, and then they re-engage when the door is pushed in again to close. I wrote a long article about tips and tricks for installing these latches in 2012 and for a while, it was the most widely viewed post on this blog. However, the question has been raised occasionally about whether an earthquake could shake the door just right so that it jiggles inward and disengages itself, defeating the whole purpose of having the latch.
The two latches being compared: push latch (left) and Murakoshi latch (right)
I�ve felt this was unlikely, and anecdotally have heard that push latches do well in quakes. However, I have recently learned about evidence that these latches can open under the right conditions, and have also been made aware of a different kind of latch that I want to tell you about: the �Murakoshi Perfect Lock PFR-TSAa: Earthquake-proof latch for hinged doors� from Japan (referred to below as the Murakoshi latch).
First, some important disclosures:
- The Illinois company that is exploring marketing and distributing these latches in the US, Tuson Corporation, which also deals in RV braking safety technology as well as manufacturing for various industries, contacted me initially to get my opinion about the potential US market. They supplied me with some complimentary test samples to try out that I was free to keep and use. Other than these test samples, I have not been compensated in any way to evaluate these latches, the company has known from the start that I would write an honest assessment even if negative, and when I decided to get more of their latches, I purchased them at full price.
- Based on my experience with different latches, I volunteered as a favor to review an early draft of their English translation instructions and made suggestions from the standpoint of someone who would try to follow them and install the latches.
- Unlike my decades of experience with push latches, I have only used these Murakoshi latches for a few months and therefore can�t advise from personal experience that they will work in a quake or will not freeze up with normal use. However, I am told by Tuson that these latches have been used in Japan successfully for a couple of decades (I have not attempted to independently verify that claim) and that they are on their third generation of latches.
- Some of my conclusions of how push latches and Murakoshi latches compare are based on seeing videos provided by Murakoshi itself. However, I found the videos to be pretty convincing.
I also want to discourage a subsequent wave of companies asking me to review their products, since I don�t have time to open myself up to that. However, in this case, Murakoshi�s approach was intriguing and I feel that the information I have learned about these latches is well worth passing along.
Comparing the different strategies for quake-resistant latches
I don't like latches that are always closed and you have to push something out of the way every time you open the cabinet, like the typical child-proof cabinet latches; too much interference in everyday use of your kitchen.
I also don't like latches that engage when they sense shaking from a quake, because if some mechanism in the latch has to fall due to the quake, the door could have already opened. I tried the �Shocklock� many years ago and I had to shake it violently for it to finally activate after many seconds. Similar products have been marketed subsequently by some well-regarded seismic bracing companies and I admit I have not tried those latches, but in general, I feel it is a weak concept that success hinges (pun intended) on something in the latch that has to move before the door moves.
I do like the push latches, other than the potential for them opening as described here, as the extra pushing motion is really not inconvenient and is even nice because the door than springs toward you as it opens. One concern is that if your guests try to open your cabinet without realizing it has a push latch, they can potentially damage the latch or themselves!
When Tuson contacted me and described the Murakoshi latch, I was initially prepared to dismiss it as just another motion-activated latch. However, they have a really neat reverse twist on the concept: this latch is always in the position to prevent the door from opening but it moves out of the way when the door opens. However, a little pendulum mechanism inside the latch has to be centered to allow this, and any displacement of the pendulum prevents the latch from moving out of the way when the door opens. Sounds hard to picture but it works quite well (look at the videos a few paragraphs down). This means that nothing has to move into a lock position before the door opens. When the shaking stops and the pendulum rests in the middle again, the latch can open again; unless something has fallen and is pushing the door from the inside, in which case it doesn�t release until you push the door back inward. Ingenious. And it works.
These latches do have a few disadvantages. First, they are expensive. Mine were $12.50 per latch (they are sold in pairs); about double the cost of push latches, which adds up if you are outfitting an entire kitchen. Second, they can only be installed in certain cabinet configurations (more on that later). Third, they are, to put it simply, a pain to install. Even after having installed quite a few of them now, I still find the process to be a mini-ordeal and prefer to not attempt to install more than two of them in one session. However, this article will take a similar approach to my previous article about push latches: tips and tricks for installation and descriptions of how I dealt with some unusual situations.
Do push latches really open up in earthquakes?
Video (below) showing cabinet doors with push latches not opening in an"armquake" and photos (above) showing the latches in that cabinet; note the "tenting out" of the cabinet doors (click to enlarge image). Oh, did you notice in the video that my plant pot is stuck down??
I think having push latches is far better than having non-quake-resistant latches, and I think under most circumstances, they would not open in a quake. As I said in a reply to someone�s comment at the end of my push latches article, I think the angle and motion of the shaking would make it difficult to open the latches because the latch end and the hinge end of the door, along with the rest of the cabinet, would be moving simultaneously, rather than having the latch end pushed in with a radial motion around the hinge. It's difficult to model this with a cabinet built into the wall. However, I have a free-standing cabinet (usually braced to a wall stud) in which I had installed these latches, with a double door and latch on each door. I tried shaking the cabinet back and forth in the direction perpendicular to the wall, with various forces and magnitudes and frequencies (kind of like my �armquakes� to test Command Strips for picture hanging). For what it's worth, these doors did not budge; you can see the video below (or online directly). The accompanying figure shows the latches on the middle shelf and you can see the doors �tenting� out a bit. That doesn't mean that someone's cabinet won't open up, if given the perfect motion for that cabinet, and much could depend on the particular door and its width, but it doesn't appear that the doors tend to unlatch from general shaking in that direction.
CAN push latches really open up in earthquake?
However, I have now seen videos of earthquake simulation tests (from Murakoshi; see disclosures above) of various latches and I've witnessed with my own eyes the push latch disengaging in some cases, with the Murakoshi latches remaining closed. Take a look at these videos below showing a push latch and Murakoshi latch in the same simulation of the huge 2011 Tohoku earthquake. I have seen several videos of push latches and several of Murakoshi latches, each with simulations of different large Japanese earthquakes from the last few decades, but I�m showing you just one representative of each; the other videos are similar and some smaller quakes also disengaged the push latch. What makes it compelling is that you can watch from outside the cabinet and also from another camera inside the cabinet, showing what the latch is doing. (You can watch small videos below, or better yet, click these links for larger videos of the push latch and Murakoshi latch and watch them on the full screen setting.)
Another caveat here: I can�t discount the possibility that the simulations and latch installations were optimized to encourage push latch failure and Murakoshi latch success. However, I believe that the several push latch videos I saw do indicate that they CAN open, and that Murakoshi latches held under these rather violent circumstances.
One thing that occurred to me while watching these push latch videos is that the chances of these jiggling open are increased if there is relatively little resistance to the �push� motion to open the latch, and relatively short distance to travel from the starting position to the push-in position. As I discussed in my push latches article, cabinet doors that use push latches can�t rest in the most fully closed position because then there would be no more room to push in to open them, so they have to stick out a little, which has aesthetic disadvantages for double-doors because of the �tenting� look. However, in these Murakoshi videos, I see that the push latch cabinet door did not have to move very far to reach the push-in disengagement position. Minimizing the distance with push latches makes them look the most normal so people might intentionally strive for that situation. However, perhaps the best way to install push latches is to have a healthy distance (like in my figure above), therefore having a greater resistance to push in, reducing the chances that parallel jiggling of door and cabinet in a quake could reach the opening position.
So, I think the push latches will prevent the doors from opening in most quakes, especially if you give the door a little extra distance between its resting and opening positions, and I suspect that they will open in some quakes under the right circumstances; but it�s still far better to have push latches than to not have quake resistant latches at all. If I had a kitchen full of push latches, I�m not sure I would actually replace them all with the Murakoshi latches, but I might adjust their positions to make the cabinet doors stick out a little more.
So how about those Murakoshi latches?
However, while I DID have a kitchen full of push latches, Tuson contacted me a few months before I was already planning to move to another home in which the cabinets had no latches at all, so this was a great opportunity to test the new ones and consider installing them instead of push latches. I now have them on most of my upper kitchen cabinets, and what follows is a guide to how I have determined is the best way to install them, including a few extra steps to deal with a non-optimal situation in which the cabinet has a slight step down from its ceiling to the top of the frame (hard to describe; see photographs).
Murakoshi latch, click to enlarge image
First, here�s what the latches look like when installed. Two issues are already evident in these photos: first, as with the push latches, the only brown latch color available is much darker than the blonde wood cabinets and I really wish that manufacturers of plastic cabinet latches would offer a version that better matches this popular cabinet color. Second, you can see that step down that I mentioned a few sentences ago; these latches are designed to go on a FLAT cabinet ceiling but I was able to add an extra step to the installation to flatten out that step-down with thin pieces of wood or synthetic material (I needed to use slightly longer screws for the back of the latch to compensate for the extra material). This is similar to my approach a couple of homes ago with the push latches in the last figure panel of my push latches article.
How do the latches work?
I took the liberty of dissecting one of the latches because I think it�s difficult to believe that the concept works until you see it with your own eyes. The three videos are below and I am also including links to the larger versions online (again, you will have the best results by clicking on the following links and watching the high resolution videos on full screen). In this first video (with audio), I have popped the top off and I�m showing you how the guts work. In the second video (with audio), I�ve re-assembled it and I am demonstrating how the latch works while in my hand, not installed. In the third video (no audio in this one), you can see how the latch works after it�s been installed. Note that the catch on the door is supposed to freely slide up and down to ensure that the latch and the catch will fit together perfectly; the catch gets pushed into the correct vertical position when it first meets the latch.
INSTALLATION
I�m making the installation instructions available here as a pdf, the instruction sheet that came with most of my latches. Haha, guess what, it�s in Japanese! If you end up obtaining these latches from Tuson, you will probably have to specify that you want the English instructions, which came with the first latches they sent me and which are available here. Now, I did review an earlier version of the English instructions to make suggestions, but I have to say, even the current version is a bit difficult to follow because the process is a bit complex, so I�ve laid out a step-by-step procedure here based on photos taken while I installed one of the latches. You�ll probably find yourself removing the contents of the top shelf and then removing the shelf itself, so allow room for the power drill.
IMPORTANT: if you have never done this before, start with double door cabinets because if you screw up one and can�t open it for some reason, you�ll still be able to access the latch from the other open door. This also gives you the opportunity to look at how the latches are closing by sticking your head into the other open door, as in the video above.
Silicone bumper dots push the cabinet door farther away. Click to enlarge image
NOTE: There are two extra steps in my procedure that you might not need to worry about. The first is the addition of the extra flat pieces of material that I used to fill in that upper step-down that I mentioned before. The second is that if you have bumper dots on your cabinet doors like I do, to cushion the closing of the doors and cut down on the slamming sound, they keep the door further away from the cabinet frame and you need to install the latches slightly farther forward so that they reach the catches on the doors. Fortunately, there�s an easy trick to do that as you�ll see below. Step 1, test the latch: Take each latch individually and before you install it, temporarily remove the two red protective pieces and confirm by hand that the hook part does not move when you jostle the latch, and that afterward, you can get it to move again by holding it perfectly still against the bottom of a cabinet.
Yep, I really do recommend this, for EVERY latch, because (especially in a single door cabinet) if you close the door and the latch does not open even when stationary, the cabinet could be stuck in the closed position! Out of the original 6 latches I was sent to test, one of them actually would not reliably let me open it again (in my hand) after jostling; in fact, that�s the one I dissected because I was already attempting to fix it and popped the cover off in the process. In the batch that I purchased afterwards, I�ve installed 9 more latches so far and none of them have exhibited this problem. Murakoshi says this problem should not occur and mine might have been a rare fluke, but knowing that such a defect (or perhaps damage in transit) is possible, play it safe and test the latches first.
Step 1, testing each latch. Click to enlarge image.
Step 2 (optional, only necessary if there is a step down from the cabinet ceiling), fill the gap: Determine PRECISELY how thick a flat piece of wood or some other material you need to fill the gap.
Step 2, filling any step-down
I had a very hard flat foam board that I had cannibalized a couple of years ago from the bottom of some old luggage; I also have some flat lightweight wood planks coincidentally of the same thickness. My step is about 7 mm deep and two of these planks together are almost 7 mm. I found that if I used double stick tape to make a two-layer piece and then put 4 more layers of double stick tape on the top, I could stick the whole thing to the ceiling of the cabinet with that tape and it was perfectly flush with the cabinet frame; the extra layers of double stick tape let me get an exactly flush mount that is necessary to avoid torqueing the latch when the screws are tightened. For these rear holes only, because of the extra material in the step, for Step 6 I used my own 3/4� flat-Phillips-head #6 screws instead of the 0.55� flat-Phillips-head #6 screws supplied with the latches.
(Clearly the latches were not designed with this kind of cabinet in mind, but you can make them work quite nicely if you are willing to go through this extra hassle. Fortunately, once you figure it out for the first one, assuming your cabinets are consistent, you can just repeat the same conditions for the others. Some people with this kind of cabinet will probably just opt to not use this kind of latch.)
Step 3, position the latch: Make a mark on the wood where you want the latch to start.
The instructions specify putting the latch 0.8 inches (2 cm) away from the edge of the frame (single door) or center line (double doors), but I found that putting it 3 cm away instead gave me a little more room that was crucial for my power drill/screwdriver to fit in a single door situation. (The instructions only suggest making a mark for the double door but I like doing it on single doors also so that all of my latches will be in consistent positions; I think they look better that way.)
Step 4, mark position of rear holes: (If you have the ceiling step-down, stick your extra layer to the ceiling of the cabinet with the double stick tape.) Hold the latch with its red plastic jig in place up against the cabinet ceiling (I do NOT expose the little built-in tape piece on top of the latch yet), pushing toward the back of the cabinet until the front tabs of the red plastic jig press against the front of the frame, and use a pencil to trace the oval rear holes on the ceiling or the extra layer, depending on your situation. Remove the latch.
It�s important to press both red tabs against the frame firmly as you mark the holes so that you don�t end up with a skewed latch.
STEP 4 ALTERNATIVE IF YOU HAVE BUMPER DOTS: Before you hold the latch up to make those marks, put some spare bumper dots of similar thickness to those already on your door right behind the tabs of the red plastic jig and press the tabs against those dots, rather than the bare cabinet frame, as in the figure. This ensures that your latch will be forward enough to clear the real dots and connect with the door catch. I have 4 bumper dots that I just keep putting up and taking off as I install a series of latches.
Steps 3 and 4, positioning latch. Click to enlarge image.
Step 5, drill rear holes: Use a sharp pointed tool like an awl to punch a dimple into the very center of each oval. Then drill a pilot hole up into the frame. (The instructions say to tape the latch in place and then drill with the bit going through the oval hole, but I found that very difficult and prone to causing the latch to move and be attached unevenly.) I found it best to use a drill bit that is slightly on the large side for what you might normally use for the #6 screws that they supply or their equivalents, large enough to let the screws be tightened without too much difficulty; i.e., 3/32� rather than the 1/16� suggested by the back of my box of #6 screws. I usually lay some aluminum foil over whatever is below to catch sawdust.
Step 5, drilling rear holes. Click to enlarge image.
Step 6, installation of rear screws. Click to enlarge image.
Step 6, install rear screws: Here�s where my advice and Murakoshi�s instructions differ considerably: You already put the rear holes in exactly the right place before attaching the latch, so now you can screw in the rear screws. However, still remove the cover of the built-in sticky tape to limit the latch�s ability to twist around as the screws are being tightened, which caused some frustration in my first few installations. Screw both rear screws in while keeping the latch firmly pressed in position because there is play in the rear holes. (I have not found the ability to slide the latch back and forth at this stage to be advantageous.) Then you can remove any temporary spacer bumper dots or you can leave them until the next step.
A power screwdriver will make this job MUCH easier, but they tend to be bulky, so invest in an extended Phillips screwdriver attachment so that you aren�t limited to that stumpy short one that probably came with your tool.
Step 7, positioning the catch. Click to enlarge image.
Step 7, position catch: If you have removed the red plastic jig, snap it back in its position in the latch. (The red and white cardboard insert should still be in place.) Peel off the white backing of the sticky black tape on the back of the catch and insert the catch into the holes in the latch. Make sure the catch is resting in its ideal position and gently close the cabinet door, press closed for a few seconds, and gently open it The catch should remain stuck to the cabinet door as it opens, in the correct position.
It�s nearly impossible to pull that white backing off; I�ve reported this to Tuson and suggested that Murakoshi include a little overhang; we�ll see.
Step 8, drill and screw in catch: The catch has a thin red tape that prevents the moving part from sliding at this point; leave it on. Punch guide holes exactly in the center of the metal holes where the screws will go and then drill into the door with the catch in place. Screw in the supplied catch screws and then pull the red tape off, enabling the catch to slide up and down.
This requires some dexterity and the picture makes the danger quite obvious: don�t drill through the door!
Step 8, positioning the catch. Click image to enlarge.
Step 9, installation of front screws. Click to enlarge image.
Step 9, install front screws: Now you finally get to take off the red plastic jig and the red & white cardboard tag! Punch guide holes in the center of the front metal holes and drill up into the wood, and then screw in the supplied front screws whether or not you used the supplied rear screws.
Tighten securely but don�t over-tighten, and make sure you aren�t torqueing the plastic of the latch. Close the door; you may need to slide the catch around to get it to go into its home position rather than banging into the front of the latch, but once it is close enough to that position, it will take the exactly correct position as the door closes. Open and close it a few times to make sure you hear the �thunk� of the latch moving up and down. If you are installing in a double door cabinet, reach in the �other� door to feel the latch as you close the latch�s door and feel the hook moving in and out; and to convince yourself that things are lined up functionally, press on the back piece of the moving hook while that door is closed and make sure you can�t open the door as long as you prevent that piece from moving.
You�re done! If you are used to push latches like I was, you may find it unnerving to not hear the click that accompanies the closing and opening of the doors with those latches; that feedback was constantly in the back of my mind telling me that the latch had engaged and disengaged. The lack of the click required a bit of a leap of faith that this new latch will actually work. However, there is that comforting soft �thunk� sound of the Murakoshi latch moving out of the way when the doors open, so there�s still audible feedback that the latch is behaving as expected; it�s just at a different time. It was disconcerting at first but I got used to it pretty quickly.
Warped doors create a problem
Warped door increased the distance between the latch and the catch; fixed by extending the catch with an extra wood spacer. Click to enlarge image.
I did encounter one door in which the latch unexpectedly would not work, and upon looking more closely, I realized that this cabinet door was warped so that the top where the latch was actually farther away from the cabinet then the rest of the door. The top bumper dot did not even touch anything. That prevented the latch from being fully closed to the point that the hook would be far enough down to stop the catch from opening. You can kind of see it in these photos; when closed, the top of the door is a little more open than the bottom, and when you look at the open door straight on the edge, you can see a little of the inside of the door at the top but not at the bottom. This was enough warp to cost those precious few millimeters at the top. My solution is shown in the last photo; it works quite well. Not shown, I also replaced the bottom bumper dot with a felt dot to bring the whole door slightly closer to the frame.
Thoughts on closing
Haha yes, that pun was intended� These latches need to be under a surface that reaches all the way to the door; they cannot be on top of a surface and they can�t be under a surface that stops prematurely. (By the way, not being on top of a surface means that they don�t take up room on your shelf, which is nice.) That means they can�t be used on most floor level kitchen cabinets because there are usually drawers or some kind of empty space above the lower cabinets; there�s nothing on which to put the latch. Push latches are also not the best in lower cabinets in the kitchen because you�ll constantly be opening them with your knees. For these reasons, I have not put quake resistant latches on lower cabinets, figuring that in most cases, things falling out of a lower cabinet won't cause many problems. I did install a very stiff latch on one lower cabinet in my previous home that had a bunch of stacked serving dishes; figured it was better than nothing. You can always put a catch style latch if you need to, but that looks, well, industrial (see the second-to-last figure in my push latch article). And I guess the point of those move-a-lever child-proof latches are to keep the toddler away from the bleach below your kitchen sink. Still, someone really needs to come up with a good solution for quake resistant lower kitchen cabinet doors. [Revised 10/8/18 - Hey, someone did! Tuson points out that a 90 degree bracket can be fastened inside the frame and the latch can be attached to the bottom of the bracket, as shown in this extra photo added in this revision. Hopefully they will come out with an official attachment for this purpose, but if you really want to, you can rig up something yourself. The same could be done for push latches, although then the door would be at the mercy of knees and dogs.]
Updated 7/8/19: Tuson now offers these latches through their own online store. If you have questions, you can contact Felice One directly at felice-one@tuson.com. Again, Quaketips has not gone commercial and it�s unusual for me to provide direct marketing information in this blog, but I think it is appropriate in this case to let you know where to find them. I have no financial connections with Tuson, Murakoshi, or any other latch manufacturer/marketer for that matter. And I repeat, while I�m impressed with the latches and have installed them in my own kitchen, I do NOT have enough experience with these latches (and won�t for many years) to feel comfortable �endorsing� or �recommending� them over other types. So let�s just say I�ve started a long-term experiment; the next time there�s a big quake, please fill up the comments section for this article saying what kind of latch you have (or no latch at all) and whether your doors opened! (I hope I am not unlatching Pandora�s box�)
One of the types of display items on bookshelves and mantles that is difficult to brace is the common plate or other flat object that rests in a folding or non-folding stand, like the ones shown in these photos. This can be tough because depending on the object and the shape of the stand where the object rests on it, it can be hard to affix the display object to the stand, and even harder to affix the bottom of the stand to the surface. Sure, you can put a massive gob of quake putty on each part but you�ll see it and it can look ugly (no offense to quake putty). Sometimes, these objects are light and having them fall would not be a problem, but for those that you want to prevent from flying and damaging themselves or something/someone else, it would be nice to be able to stick them down.
In some cases, I have used putty and simply scraped away as much as possible so that it isn�t obviously visible, as shown in the first set of photos. But I have some thin geode slices sitting on clear plastic stands, and while quake putty was fine to stick the backs to the stands, even small dabs of putty on the stands� feet looked bad showing through the clear plastic, as shown in these photos of the blue geode slide. I would usually use quake gel for clear objects but quake gel is runny, and doesn�t work well with very small feet of stands; it�s better for broad surfaces.
I solved this problem with one of my new quake-proofing friends, Gripeez. I�ve written about these magic clear sticky gel pads before and I keep coming up with new uses for them. (I have no financial ties to the company, and I imagine there are other similar products from other companies.) In this case, I cut small rectangles of Gripeez that were the size of the feet of my stands and put them under the feet, with quake putty sticking down the back rest of the stand that can�t be seen from the front. It took a bit of finessing to get the sticky things to remain on the feet without twisting as I removed my fingers before placing the stand on the surface, because they kept sticking to my fingers, but I managed to do it. It looks great!
Click the figures to see larger versions
Because the Gripeez is thick (around 3 mm), the stand feet don�t rest directly on the shelf and the stand can move slightly from side to side, which isn�t ideal, but it seems to be holding this pretty well. In a large quake, it would probably come off, but I think this would discourage the objects from sliding or flying in a medium quake that might otherwise knock objects off shelves.
I also started using small pieces of Gripeez under the two lower corners of framed pictures if they were on maze picture hooks, to keep them straight, in my previous home. I used to use putty for that but the putty can leave shiny marks on some flat paint walls, and the Gripeez didn�t leave any trace on the paint in that home. However, some unexpected home repairs involving water damage have made me need to temporarily remove some of the framed pictures that I hung with maze hooks a few months ago in my current home, and I have found to my annoyance that the little squares of Gripeez that I had cut out and placed under the corners left the paint slightly shadowed, as if it was a little wet. I was annoyed to see this because the whole point of using these things instead of quake putty was to avoid shiny marks on flat paint, so seeing these shaded areas isn't much better. In my old home, which had a similar paint job, the Gripeez left the paint absolutely unaffected, so I guess different paints react differently. I did notice that they are extremely sticky though, so very small squares should still be effective and might leave less noticeable marks.]
By the way, these Gripeez are also really fun to play with; as they are sticky and squishy and stretchy and can offer hours of entertainment to otherwise mature adults, based on personal experience�
I�ll start this article with material that many of you know already, and then hit you with something you may not have thought about.
Here�s what you might already know, especially if you have attended one of my talks. Even if you have taken measures to prevent your kitchen cabinet doors from swinging open in a quake*, which would allow the contents to fall out and shatter or cause other problems, those contents can still get jostled around inside the closed cabinet and break. I think the most likely candidates for getting broken inside a closed cabinet are delicate crystal wine glasses.
[*See my discussion of push latches, including some recent questions about conditions under which they might fail; a large article about different latches is forthcoming.]
If you don�t use those glasses very often, you can take steps to preserve them by sticking them down with several small pieces of quake putty under the edge of the base. Now if you do this, you need to be able to pick them up again to use them, and this ironically risks breaking the glasses if you try to hold them by their bowl sections (the drinking part), since the stems will easily snap. The secret is to grasp a glass by its flat base and gently twist the base while slightly tilting the glass (again, only by holding the base). At first, it might seem like you can�t do this, but a gentle insistent twist/tilt will ultimately convince the base to separate from the shelf.
Ways to prevent them from getting too difficult to lift up include using really tiny pieces of putty (smaller than the ones in the old photos above, like the size of a coriander seed), and not pressing them too hard onto the shelf when placing them initially. Using quake putty usually involves twisting an object and pressing hard onto the surface, but in this case, just gently press the base down, no twisting, and don�t flatten the putty balls too much, just enough for the glass to feel firmly attached to the underlying surface. Also, don�t put them too close together, because that little tilt means that the top of the glass moves sideways, and if there is another glass in its way, you could have problems.
I�ve noticed that if you pick up a glass within a year or two, the putty easily peels off the base without leaving any trace to be cleaned up; but if you pick up one after many years (like eight, in my case), they can be a little harder to lift up, and there might be a trace of putty that you end up needing to clean off. It�s still better than cleaning up shards of shattered crystal wine glasses on the floor after a quake. Remember to leave the putty balls on the shelf because you can reuse them when you put the glasses back.
Ok, now for the part you may not have considered. It�s admittedly a pain to do this to your wine glasses, and you will probably only do it for the expensive delicate ones, leaving cheaper wine glasses and also regular drinking glasses un-fastened. But that means that in a substantial quake, the delicate glasses might not fall over, but the crude and thick cheap glasses will be flying around and will crush the fastened delicate expensive ones! I solved this problem in my previous home, and have recreated it in my new home, by putting a wire shelf divider like the one shown in these photos, onto the shelf between the cheap ones and the expensive ones. These are available at places like the Container Store (not an endorsement; it�s just where I got mine) and most certainly from online merchants.
Click image for larger photo
One limitation of these dividers is that they have large gaps through which smaller glasses, pieces of glasses, or edges of intact glasses could still hit the adhered delicate glasses. I actually did not think that the following idea would work when I first tried it, but it was magnificently successful: I put a piece of white card on the side of the divider closest to the cheap glasses, and adhered it to the divider with� guess what� quake putty! The uses for that stuff just keep getting more numerous! It is on the side closest to the cheap glasses because those are what we are trying to stop from going through the divider; if they were on the putty side rather than the card side, they could theoretically push through and knock the card off, and proceed to cause the mayhem we are trying to avoid.
Click image for larger photo
If you get the type shown in the picture, it is very stable and does not easily slide on the shelf or tip over; it�s a very solid combination. I assembled the one shown in the photo in 2009 for my old home, it was still solid in 2017 when I pulled the divider off of the shelf, and it remained solid through the move and being tossed in a pile so that when I put it on the shelf in my new place as shown in the picture, I didn�t have to do anything to it; it was as strong as the day it was put together.
Note that this card was somewhat glossy and smooth, and made a good surface for the putty to stick. Had it been more fibrous or porous paper, I doubt this would have worked. But any smooth, non-floppy surface to which the putty will stick, including smooth card, plastic, light weight metal, etc., will work well. Of course, if you want, you can use any of a number of glues or cements.
The moral of this story is: always be thinking one step ahead of potential earthquake-caused problems, including putting up a fence to keep the bullies out.
This is a special short bulletin regarding the use of Gripeez to stabilize the bottom corners of pictures hanging on maze picture hooks, which I have recently been recommending as an alternative to using pieces of quake putty to stabilize the corners. This worked wonderfully in my previous home. However, some unexpected home repairs involving water damage in my current home have made me need to temporarily remove some of the framed pictures that I hung with maze hooks a few months ago, and I have found to my annoyance that the little squares of Gripeez that I had cut out and placed under the corners left the paint slightly shadowed, as if it was a little wet. I was annoyed to see this because the whole point of using these things instead of quake putty was to avoid shiny marks on flat paint, so seeing these shaded areas isn't much better. In my old home, which had a similar paint job, the Gripeez left the paint absolutely unaffected, so I guess different paints react differently. I did notice that they are extremely sticky though, so very small squares should still be effective and might leave less noticeable marks. I've updated some recent articles in which I had mentioned this use of Gripeez but wanted to post a new bulletin in case anyone already read those articles and won't be reading them again. >>back to blog
Here�s an update on sticking pictures to walls with Command Velcro-style picture hanging strips, about which I wrote before. (If you haven't read that article already, I suggest reading it before reading this one.) I continue to be very impressed with these, but I have additional experience that I would like to share with people here as I�ve been putting up a lot of pictures in my new home.
First of all, as you might guess, these are not a good option for frames that have paper on the back. They will stick, but if you were to try to remove them by unzipping the Velcro-style connection between the two strips, you run the risk that the strips would remain together and the paper would rip off. Therefore, for such pictures, I continue to use maze picture hooks.
If the frame already has a picture wire, then you can usually remove the hardware that holds the wire in place, like screw-eyes, because they will prevent the back of the frame from getting close enough to the wall for the Command strips to work. Also, if you have a hybrid frame that has a fold-up kickstand for tabletop display, and you don�t want to rip that off, then you have to make sure it is thin enough so that the Command strip sandwich will still connect the back of the frame to the wall.
I also realized in my current round of picture hanging that if the frame is not completely flat, it can cause problems. As you can see in these photos of a couple of small framed pictures in a stairwell, they are working very well but there is one frame that apparently has a slight bend to it, and that prevented the sticky back of the Command strip against the wall from sitting flush on it (rightmost photo, upper part of the strip; you can click on the picture to enlarge it)). I am not too concerned though, because most of the strip is on the wall and I haven�t seen evidence that it is slowly peeling off; it is just off of the wall in the part where the frame is bent. The rest of that strip, and all of the other three strips, seem fine.
By the way, other than this one instance of the sticky part of the strip not completely being flush with the wall, I have not observed any other instance of these becoming separated, either at the sticky surface or at the Velcro interlocking faces. I mentioned these Command strips at one of my talks and someone in the audience said that they had had a bad experience with them coming off, and I was hoping to find out more about that and requested that they e-mail me details afterward but they didn�t contact me afterward, so I don�t know if it was a situation like this one instance I�ve described here. It does not appear likely to me that the interlocking Velcro part will spontaneously come undone, and the sticky parts of regular Command strips (i.e., not the Velcro style, but the single strips that attach hooks to walls) have been very stable over many years in my experience.
I also used the Command strips to stick this ornamental plate to the wall (shown above); two strips at the top and one in the middle. Quite nice!
One disadvantage of using the Command strips is that if you decide to repaint your walls, you won't just be taking pictures off of hooks and pulling nails out of the wall temporarily. You'll either have to paint around the wall-mounted half of the Command strip pair (which means you'll see the footprint if you later remove that strip to reposition the picture), or you'll have to permanently undo the whole set-up and start again from scratch after the paint job.
Now here�s one more issue: I put a couple of small pictures on a bathroom wall with the command strips and they look great from the front, but you can see in the photo that the pull tabs of the strips are somewhat visible from the side on the wall, and very obvious in the reflection of the frames in the mirror! Even though the wall is near white and the pull tabs are white, they show through the shadows easily (upper photos; click on the figure to enlarge it). These Command strips are also available in black, and I had avoided those because I figured they would clash with a white wall. However, I tried them in this case and I was completely wrong before: the black ones don�t clash with the white wall; instead, they blend nicely into the shadow (lower photos). MUCH better looking in this case than the white ones. I actually tried a hybrid in which a white one was on the wall and a black one was on the picture frame, but that one white pull tab was still visible. So don�t be afraid to use the black ones in a shadow situation if the frame is black.
By the way, in case it doesn�t go without saying, I don�t suggest determining what size strips to use by the weight capacity listed on the package. That figure is set to avoid spontaneous failure on stationary walls, NOT for separation during shaking in an earthquake. I would err on the side of larger strips.
Well, it�s been about a year and a half since I first started experimenting with these Command Strips and wrote my original article about them. Having used maze picture hooks as much as possible before these, what is my current default approach to hanging pictures? Actually, I would say I have about half maze hooks and half Command strips. I�m using Command strips for framed pictures that are relatively light-weight and no more than about 3 feet wide (no magic number there; I�m just going by the feel of it), for unframed pictures even if they are larger if they have a broad enough back edge for the strips to stick, and for objects like that metal plate above that can�t take picture wire (see the couple of examples shown in the accompanying figure). I�m using maze picture hooks for the larger, heavier framed pictures. If they are just very large but still relatively lightweight (for example, if I can easily pick it up with two hands and position it on the wall), I�m using a single maze hook nailed into the drywall, or two maze hooks several inches apart lined up horizontally if the picture is wide enough that I want extra stability. If the picture is REALLY big and heavy, like the very large picture shown below, then I go for two maze hooks lined up horizontally 16 inches apart and bolted into the wall studs. As I wrote about in an earlier article about maze hooks, I also use these for heavy objects suspended from string like metal gongs on the wall, with the hook bolted into a wall stud.
One more evolved part of my strategy is that I no longer use small pieces of quake putty in the lower corners to stabilize the pictures from rotating or swinging out, because that does involve risk of shiny marks on otherwise flat paint surfaces. I am now routinely using small cut-out rectangles of �Gripeez� (see my 10/23/17 article), which is one of the modern polymer-based tacky gripper pads that stick well with no adhesive residues and no alteration of painted surfaces of which I�m aware. [update (3/12/18): regarding the use of Gripeez to stabilize the bottom corners of pictures hanging on hooks, as mentioned above, some unexpected home repairs involving water damage have made me need to temporarily remove some of the framed pictures that I hung with maze hooks a few months ago, and I have found to my annoyance that the little squares of Gripeez that I had cut out and placed under the corners left the paint slightly shadowed, as if it was a little wet. I was annoyed to see this because the whole point of using these things instead of quake putty was to avoid shiny marks on flat paint, so seeing these shaded areas isn't much better. In my old home, which had a similar paint job, the Gripeez left the paint absolutely unaffected, so I guess different paints react differently. I did notice that they are extremely sticky though, so very small squares should still be effective and might leave less noticeable marks.]
So now remember, if someone asks you, �so you�re following that Springer guy�s blog, what did you think of it?,� be sure to use words like �gripping!,� �suspenseful!,� or perhaps �hooked!� (but hopefully not �tacky��)
My solution was either a stroke of alien genius or luck or a bit of both. I noticed at the hardware store a very long-shank padlock, and if I leave off the lock part and just use the shank, this hardened metal U shape easily slides over the two handles and does not bend at all. I just slip my finger under the top of the U, slide it up and off, and then drop it back into place when I close the door. I can even do it without leaving fingerprints on the mirrored doors! Why, a pre-language ape could do it!
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see two different kinds of pegs under the shelf. The brown ones are the pegs that were there originally, but they have been turned around. These have a screw and a plastic peg at right angles to each other, and the screw was attaching it to the bottom of the shelf while the plastic peg was in the hole; and we know what can happen to plastic pegs in holes bearing weight! (I couldn�t find a photo of the exact peg, but the photo shown here on the left is of a metal version; pretend this is brown plastic and you�ll get the picture.) I kept the original pegs but turned them so that the plastic pegs were sticking up into the holes underneath the shelf, and the thick metal screws were going into the holes in the sides of the cabinet. Then, still worried about all that weight on three screws per side that might not be great with shear force, I added three new plastic supports with metal pegs like the ones shown on the right. (Note: if you do something like this, the holes to drill for the additional pegs won�t be at exactly the same level as the pre-drilled peg holes; you�ll just have to bumble your way through it like I did.)
Now how about that dresser. This is holding a lot of stuff and is very heavy. It�s an Ikea dresser (yep, I put it together all by myself; took all evening but it was worth it!) and ironically, the Ikea dressers now come with kits to brace them to walls and little inserts that say you must do this to prevent little kids from climbing up the front and getting seriously injured or worse. And of course, we all brace our dressers to the wall in Earthquake Country, right? And even though it is behind closed doors that were secured as I just described earlier, a large enough earthquake could still make this dresser want to fall forward and it might just punch through the doors. But it was not practical in the wardrobe to brace the dresser to the back because that back is just flimsy backing board, not structurally sound. I ended up screwing in metal L brackets on one side and on the bottom front as pictured in the accompanying figure. Yeah I know, this is not the strongest configuration, but it was all I could do and I think that in combination with the secured doors, it will prevent the dresser from falling forward.
That�s an important question because my desk is about 5 feet in front it the wardrobe; if it falls away from the wall, it�s headed right toward me! The wardrobe already had two of the cabinet straps from Quakehold/Ready America at the top, and I added a third, all in wall studs of course. Because this is so large and heavy, I didn�t just rely on the adhesive holding the fuzzy part of the Velcro strap to the top of the wardrobe; I screwed in the little short wood screws that come with some of the straps so that the assembly was more securely attached to the furniture. You can kind of see the screws in the middle photo and one is clearly shown in the righthand photo.
I�ve been a bit concerned, however, that this was larger and heavier than anything I had ever braced and I wasn�t sure whether the straps would really hold it. They probably would, but then I heard about something, ironically, from my next door neighbors, of which I had not been aware. The Japanese have poles that go between the top of tall furniture and the ceiling, compressed, so that the back of the top can�t get any higher, which it would need to do if the furniture was falling away from the wall. I could not find these on Amazon, etc., but a search brought up one Japanese source and fortunately I was able to successfully order them, despite return messages being in Japanese. In case you can�t find them, here is a link to the product that works currently; if it changes, try www.rakuten.co.jp. The instructions are all in Japanese; you can figure it out somewhat from the diagrams but make sure you realize the following:
(3) There�s a red line on the bottom tube showing where it is over-extended; you don�t want that red mark to be exposed when it is put together or it won�t be a strong.
